A Gorgeous, Inspiring April Week on Ambergris Caye

Last week, the wind was howling…making fishing and snorkeling difficult/impossible. And the wind brought in huge mats of sargassum. This week, the “Easter winds” died down considerably (starting Monday, April 7th) and shifted from the north. Clearing our beaches and providing, maybe, our last touch of cooler air (temp in the mid-high 70s) as we move into (HOT) summer in Belize.

Beautiful weather, a busy week. Here are some of my snapshots. I’m getting to you a bit late because our internet is out this morning. I’m borrowing the Wifi from the resort next door. Shhhh…

A coral heart
I found a coral heart

I wrote about the Cayo Rosario meeting on Tuesday evening – the message came from the entire community. Emotional and unified as many expressed that they feel like that are losing the island they love and the one that supports their family. We will not accept 40 over-the-water structure in the Marine Reserve!

The gathered crowd at Cayo Rosario meeting – there were dozens spilling out onto street as well

I also stopped at the farmers’ stalls on Back a Back Street – in town by the lagoon – where Mennonites set up stand of locally grown veggies and fruits early Tuesday morning. I found some huge bunches of delicious chaya. I grabbed mine with my bare hands- I’m SUCH an amateur.

Some types of chaya – this SUPER FOOD GREEN that grows locally – have teeny tiny spines on the young leaves that leave an awful sting. Thankfully, this was stinger-free – and delicious cooked with eggs. (Read all about this native super food and how to prepare it.) Protein, calcium, considered more nutritious than spinach.

Chaya in my golf cart
Chaya in the golf cart – 2 bunches for $3.50bzd each. You can also see how dusty it is out…even my bag is coated

Wednesday the North Ambergris Alliance had a meeting scheduled with our local Department of The Environment. Did you know that San Pedro’s new DOE office is the first one in the country outside of their main office in Belmopan? Did you know that there are only 24 technical officers in the entire country who monitor and can enforce the environmental laws of Belize?

It was a super interesting meeting about how we can work together – to enforce laws against illegal dumping and fill (you can NOT fill a lot with trash), illegal filling and reclaiming of “land” (you need a permit), noise pollution…a host of issues.

Ms. Marleni De La Fuente-Arzu, our local DOE officer

I learned for the second time in 2 weeks that you should NEVER eat a meat pie while driving. Never.

Gross. Meatpie innards on my tee shirt.

And then it was up to the far north (17ish miles) for an overnight at the camp. Gorgeous weather.

The road is incredibly dry and dusty.

Someone, a few miles north of us, even put up a sign…though I’m not exactly sure what they are referring to!

Welcome to Dry Gulch

One of our few neighbors up north had babies the night before. Well…her duck did. 4 easter cuties.

Mama beach duck and babies
Mama beach duck and her babies
It’s amazing that they are less than 24 hours old
I also found a buoy in a less traveled area
One of the homes up north – the screen crusted up with last week’s salty winds

Since we are soooo close to the barrier reef up north, the high winds and waves against the reef kick up an incredible amount of salt into the air…

It salted up the screens in the house above, it covered our cabanas at the camp in a sea schmutz (yes…that’s a technical term) and it burned the leaves right off some of our crotons, crown-of-thorn plants and even the palms that are meant to be very salt-hearty.

Young croton that was doing really well until last week’s salt spray
Beach walk with the girls to check out the sargassum

Last week at Robles Point – where the reef just about touches the land.

Sargassum at Robles Point
Last week

And then this week – looking from the other side. Still there but…

Cleared considerably!
Not too bad…
Strange sponge
The waves pushed in a bunch of sponges – this one almost looks spraypainted
Back at the camp…
Belly swimming
Our camp girls Belly (here) and Biscuit take themselves swimming about 25x a day

And a gorgeous almost full moon that night.

Full-ish moon at Rocky Point
A bit of sargassum blew in the next morning…

Two things that flyfishermen seem to remember to pack. Sunblock and powder. Cooling powder on a hot humid summer walk is a dream. Some folks like Gold Bonds, some like Monkey Butt, I’m an Ammens fan.

Ask someone raised in Mississippi or Alabama. They’ll have a suggestion.

Best friend of flyfisherpeople in the tropics

Back home and then to town for a meeting with our local chapter of the BTIA. The bad roads way up north and the part of my golf cart that holds on the windshield snapped.

Golf carts were designed for manicured, level golf courses not off-road driving over rocks and roots!

Sigh…

Belize Tourism Industry Association. We’ve never joined but they advocate for tourism and sustainability on this island and…well….there is strength in numbers.

sunset on back of San Pedro
Beautiful sunset over the lagoon

A great meeting, we officially registered for membership and I headed home early. I had a 7am trash clean-up to attend the next day – and I had to be in town by 630am to pick up our 4 Belize Coast Guard volunteers. Thank you guys!

An AMAZING crew of volunteers arrived – from Las Terrazas and Matachica Resort, El Pescador, Cocatel Hotel and 11 students and the principal from Holy Cross School, Tres Cocos Resort and Dennis Alfaro Construction, the traffic department provided us a safety escort and the San Pedro Town Council picked up all the full bags.

It was sooo good. And the road – from the bridge all the way to Residences at Barrier Reef (about 4 miles) looks fantastic for Easter.

Thank you everyone! It’s so inspiring to see our community so fired up against unsustainable development at Tuesday’s meeting and then coming together for a clean-up on Saturday.

It really DOES help to get off Facebook and social media and get out there…fills me with love for this island.

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9 Comments

  1. Shelley Enger on April 13th, 2025 at 1:27 pm

    So thankful for all you do for Ambergrise Caye . Love the island and your newsletter.
    Traverse City , Michigan



    • San Pedro Scoop on April 23rd, 2025 at 7:46 am

      Beautiful Traverse City! I dream of visiting for cherry season – and for a sandwich at that Italian deli you guys have. YUM!



  2. Tom Smith on April 13th, 2025 at 1:49 pm

    Yea look at those ducks. Brandie new to the world.
    Check the dog out. Pools open.
    Nice moon shot.
    We all live under the sun.
    TS



  3. Harpo Zaneis on April 13th, 2025 at 2:09 pm

    Keep up the tiring but good work



  4. Tina Ferrato on April 14th, 2025 at 12:03 am

    Gratifying to read about the turnout for the Cayo Rosario meeting, as well as the local DOE, and then, especially, the Trash Clean-up! Loved seeing the duck and her wee ones!
    Interesting to learn about chaya; can’t believe I never heard of it while there. Fascinating detail about the cooling powder! Really loved learning that tidbit (yes, I’m weird like that)! And finally, I just have to say that I CAN NOT fathom driving as much as you do! Yikes! But at the same time, I’m grateful for all you do and info you provide via your Scoop!



  5. Nancy J. Willard on April 14th, 2025 at 7:50 am

    We just returned from our 12 days stay on Ambergris. Your newsletter helped so much with the restaurant recommendations and native food descriptions and all the other useful information. Thank you so much for taking the time to post your newsletter. I can totally see why you fell in love with the Caye and stayed.



    • San Pedro Scoop on April 23rd, 2025 at 7:45 am

      Thank you so much for that. I’m glad you loved it too 🙂



  6. Deanna on April 15th, 2025 at 5:45 am

    Very concerned about the overdevelopment and mangrove destruction. Love keeping up with news thanks to you!



  7. Christie on April 18th, 2025 at 9:44 pm

    Amazing work like always and valuable information. I have 11 days I’ll be there.
    I’m excited …. Can’t wait!!